Surfing is fun?
You know exactly what I’m talking about here because we’ve all felt it. The stress, the absolute terror of paddling back out when someone is ripping down the line. Someone carving and bashing and smashing and there you are too far away from the already carved, bashed, smashed part of the wave to commit easy seppuku. To far from the soft shoulder.
Right in the way. Right smack bang in the way.
Or just chilling on the shoulder. Playing cool. Playing “I’ve-been-in-heavier-surf-than-this-and-who-cares” while just sitting on board being James Bond.
Figuring out how to commit seppuku is always the right call but sometimes…. damn it sometimes we rely on the goodwill, attention, of our high performance shortboard surfing sisters and brothers.
Them seeing us and dumb turning away or not seeing us and just getting lucky. Them understanding our cool James Bond thing because they’ve played it too and respecting the chill.
No?
Unfortunately yes.
But on very rare* occasions signals get crossed.
And tell me true. Have you ever seen a more vicious face dislocation?
Have you delivered one?
Please tell.
*Excluding Gabriel Medina
Commented on Disqus? Log out, tap the Disqus button, and your old name and comments come back. The box is ours.
Your comments are still here. Every one of them.
Twelve years of BeachGrit comments came across from Disqus. Connect and we will show you how many are yours. We get your username, nothing else.
Connect Disqus to reveal.
Do you call this journalism … How is this delivering the essence of surfing , … Beach grit well named 🤔
Thats fintastic.
I think both were trying to function off a shared brain cell?
Not anymore love, the precedent has been set. At least give some retinas a good hosing.
I don’t think that guy will ever sit in the way in the sweet spot in the wave. He learned the hard way a rule that seems obvious to the majority of surfers.
Duck all y’all butches
Unstoppable force + immovable object.
Obviously it’s the guy on the shoulders fault entirely but it should be noted that the surfer up and riding also has a responsibility to avoid chopping the face off anybody who gets in his path.
There’s right of way rules of the road but that doesn’t mean you’re allowed to speed up and T-bone the car that scoots through the intersection.
Don’t sit in the freeway, dippyduck.
Try living in a town with a coveted point that looks like VAL heaven but is in fact tricky. It’s only a matter of time before I skip a rail going for the big spray. One guy….instead of paddling and wise to my public display of dissatisfaction…just fucking sat there and no shit…put his hands in front of his face to block the spray!
Unrelated.. I’m pretty high and at work but I thought I just heard on the radio Slater’s building the world’s biggest wave pool?
I heard the same thing, in the Californian desert.
You are in the Californian desert?
Only when I’m building wave pools
Oh good I was thinking of cutting back on the breakfast hongkongs
That would be a shame
It’s not that hard to duckdive 6″ and gtf out of the way.
Surfer assumed paddler was going to move. Paddler assumed surfer would go around them. Assumption is the mother of all fuck ups
Truly makes an ass out of u and me.
Ass gumption.
My mother has been told numerous times that she is, in fact, the mother of all fuck ups
Gonna need some cannibus after that one
I detect an arm raise so perhaps no teef missing.
https://youtu.be/BJIQafo9ixM
After watching it a few times, I’m confident in saying shoulder guy will in future sacrifice a bit of cool and paddle a couple strokes more to get out the back. Completely on him.
I’d like to go out on a limb here, a bit, and speculate that this might have hurt. Perhaps not the person riding the surfyboard, but possibly the person receiving it.
Probably hurt the riders surfyboard which in turn would have hurt the rider emotionally and monetarily.
According to Michael Stipe, “every butty hurts, sometimes”.
“Take carport in your friends”
I thought it was every botty hurts.
This is amazing. If you make no concerted effort to head in the right direction then you deserve this every single time. This is the true VAL conversion therapy Chas.