VAL Matt Damon joins the toxic stew at Australia's most dangerous wave!
Put down the gun and learn to love.
Man falls back in love with pro surfing after difficult year.
Progression comes through a respect of the past etc.
A reader explains the difference between a "surfer" and "someone who surfs…"
"Letting go of the idea of surfing will liberate you from its perceived demise. It's acceptance through transcendence."
But surf fans even worse!