"It was, at times, enough to dull yesterday’s failure to run, but never extinguish it."
Under a cloud hung sky, day two of the Lexus Pipe Pro, eventually, began.
Is there a worse sporting predicament than a surf contest under the gloom of a poor forecast? The vets must question their life choices. Opportunities missed. Educations a ghost appeal. Relationships blown to shreds in the wake of swells. Whole lives glossed over with a thin sheen of expertise in one, insignificant skill.
The rookies, too. What’s the use in all those reps if you can’t get off the bench? It’s enough to break even the emptiest of San Clemente’s home-schooled minds.
But chase it they do. That’s their choice. They choose to bump shoulders with the bumping gums of Joe Turpel and Kaipo Guerrero. They choose to be presided over by Jesse Miley-Dyer, Chief of Sport, a woman who increasingly reminds me of the way that porcelain cracks.
Yet still, she holds their bloody sacrifices in the palm of her hand.
Making the correct call and therefore serving your athletes and your audience is priority number one. That has not happened at Pipeline, as has been widely and correctly espoused by notable personalities and all surf adjacent media with a backbone.
Failure to run the Lexus Pipe Pro yesterday on the grounds of being “too big” is an egregious failure of duty by Miley-Dyer and the WSL, and we should make no apologies for continuing to state that plainly.
And so today, in the wake of this, competition resumed in waves that were just fine, perhaps occasionally pretty in the early heats, but deteriorated as the day ebbed. It was, at times, enough to dull yesterday’s failure, but never extinguish it.
We were served mounds of amphetamine sulphate when we should have had high-grade cocaine.
Perhaps no-one felt this more than Kelly Slater who lost to Ethan Ewing in the first heat of the day. He knew, as we did, that he’d been afforded a graceful path of lesser opponents in his side of the draw. He must’ve been gnawing the bedposts in anticipation of running yesterday. Big, raggedy Pipe would’ve been a gift to him.
But it was not to be, and he exited without making a wave.
The insert clip of a Slater interview took on greater poignancy. In it, he bemoaned the lack of competitive fire on Tour. Everyone was friendly, he said. There were no personal wars left, no bitter rivalries that marked his best years.
It was the melancholic reminiscence of an old man, but it was no less true. Slater’s only remaining battle is grimly within. In that we can find interest.
The greater the beauty, the more terrible the death.
It was a day of small deaths for some of the most beautiful Pipeline artists, robbed as they were of the basic constituents of their art. As with Slater, other past champions to fall in the round of 32 included Ferreira, Robinson and Medina.
Robinson and Medina were vanquished by rookies Ramzi Boukhiam and Crosby Colapinto, respectively. For Boukhiam, a verified sexual weapon, it was a narrow but deserved victory. It was also one of some significance for a man who suffered a season ending injury this time last year after trying to qualify for the WCT for a decade or more.
You would need to ask him personally, but I did wonder if it was more or less satisfactory than his conquest of Rhianna some years ago.
He was to lose in the round of 16 to the in-form Jordy Smith, but will be satiated nonetheless.
Unsatisfied and hopefully spun into bulging rage is Gabriel Medina. A 2.73 heat total in eight attempts was all he could muster against Crosby Colapinto, who took the heat victory with an underwhelming 8.86 total, despite a single wave score of 8.33.
The sub-optimal conditions at the Lexus Pipe Pro played into Jordy Smith’s hands today. A lacklustre Pipe surfer over the years, he was no doubt delighted with the energy focused on Backdoor. Two good victories see him move into a quarter final match up with Barron Mamiya, which will test him regardless of conditions.
Italo Ferreira was perhaps the unluckiest surfer today in losing to Smith. Not only did Jordy notch his winning wave in the dying seconds at Backdoor, but the 8.87 Italo held in his losing total was one of the most exciting waves of the day.
Glorious in slow-motion, he made a critical handsfree drop on a solid Backdoor wave where only the rippling power of his quads kept him engaged. Grabbing the rail at the bottom, he seemed to throw his whole body back into the wave face before disappearing from view. He was certainly too low, detonated under the lip, but somehow he exited cleanly, before standing tall and liplining the closeout section.
Judges took an age to drop the score, the longest by far all day. There was a lot to unpack. In the end the 8.87 seemed ok, but on review a point higher might not be disputed.
Of every man on Tour, none has suffered more than Italo over the past couple of seasons from spectacular moments that result in nothing. Let’s hope this isn’t a precursor for more of the same. If what we look for in pro surfing are explosive moments, then what we look for is Italo Ferreira.
Entertaining and successful today were the best tube technicians on show: Leo Fioravanti (my Surfvival pick!); John Florence and Callum Robson. All notched excellent waves and seemed at ease in the tricky conditions. For once, the eye test and the scoring were in accord.
Callum Robson, for my money, owes Kaipo a slap in the face. Every time Robson surfs Kaipo trots out the same old shite about “solid fundamentals…workmanlike performances…nothing flashy…” etc etc so on and so pish.
The man is patently one of the best technical tube riders in the entire world, especially in heavy rights. I truly hope you read this, Kaipo: put some fuckin respect on his name.
Unfortunately Robson was to come up against the untameable Florence in the round of 16, on imperious form at his home break.
Florence and Fioravanti will meet in the quarters. One to look forward to.
Jordy Smith and Barron Mamiya has the capacity to entertain, but my (literal) money favours Mamiya.
Hawaiians Ian Gentil and Imaikalani deVault match-up in quarter three, and if you’d picked that one pre-comp you’d have been a rich man. Neither surfer elicited a note from me today aside from a raised eyebrow of half-remembrance when AJ mentioned Gentil had been Rookie Of The Year last season.
In the remaining match up, Ethan Ewing meets Connor O’Leary. Ewing is there on merit, O’Leary as a conditions related anomaly with heat totals of 8.00 and 7.93, including a “buzzer beater” score of 2.60 in the round of 16 for one backhand turn.
Ladies and gentlemen, your Lexus Pipe Pro, presented by Jesse Miley-Dyer.
A break for the women next, I’d imagine.
Cloud hung skies or crystal dawns, I’ll be watching every minute.
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Lexus ‘s must be flyin of the lots….
it is pretty obvious they are moving away from surfing big waves for a number of interconnected reasons. 1) liability-they don’t want someone to get seriously hurt in the water and have that raise a bunch of questions that could hurt business (I am not sure about insurance, who pays if an athlete gets hurt). 2) Audience- They want to grow the sport, spreading it to the masses. They believe the way to do this is to make it more like gymnastics, something more “relatable” than the gladiator pit of huge barrels. 3) The Narrative- They are pushing the “equal by nature” bullshit, and don’t want the difference between men and women to be so shockingly apparent as it would be if they ran the men in triple overhead and the women at pipe trestles. Yes, the women are getting better, and good for them, but they still aren’t at the level of the men, and do they really have to be? It’s fine if they are or aren’t just let it happen naturally and stop forcing it. I do think men are naturally bigger, stronger, faster, and more competitive; it is not like women don’t have their own merits, but if there are exceptions more power to them, but stop forcing this bullshit down our throats.
They have a layup in their hands. Surfing, as seen in the legendary teahupoo heat between john and kelly, or at cloudbreak in 2012, is the best show on earth. They need to reimagine the tour around that, or make a tour for chargers and another for gymnasts. The amount of failures is ridiculous in the last 3 years alone (going to g – land to surf it as if it were a 2 foot beach break????).I think people would pay to see the best surf giant scary barrels in a gladiator pit arena…..I would be tuned in anyway…The danger is the appeal, and they are ignoring the key selling point…
2014
Sorry, wait. Rihanna?
buried the lede!
Not just Rhianna, peak Rhianna!
It’s not that hard to believe but I’m only seeing one reference to that on the internet and no photos. Is there any proof beyond a deleted Inertia article ?
Will dig up a pic when I get a moment. Shamefully, I think it might have been me who wrote that Inertia article.
Lol. Cool. It’s been since deleted.
Was it in hawaii, or elsewhere ?
What year was this????
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This changes everything!
Power rankings honorary world champ
that’s money! shot! shoot…see ya.
Why are we having a surfing contest? He already won.
The momentum is real.
I wonder if Slater when losing heats like yesterday ever contemplates what he is doing with his life. I imagine its similar to the feeling I get when paddling out on a small, gutless day to show the groms whos boss as they do cartwheels and twirlybirds around me.
Have you checked the river mouths down there post storm?
The ones by me are blown out pretty good. Still hard to determine if any good bars are set up from what I have seen. Been pretty messy lately. Not sure about VT though. Looks like there has been some days but work has been busy.
I’m pretty sure that Slade is constantly contemplating his life and has a pretty good idea of exactly where he is. Him being on tour now is just marketing for his many business ventures. Cheap (paid) publicity.
Nah, he can’t quit. It’s the classic gambler mentality. He’s utterly hooked and can’t stop until he wins or busts entirely.
Cards are stacked against him at this point. No hope.
Absolutely, but that’s when you just push harder!
Great writing as usual. thank you for that… and I can’t shake the feeling that I just don’t give a shit about any of it. The WSL and surfing in general has truly become the worst. They got what they want…
“Growing the sport”… go fuck yourself… Same thing I think when hear rich pro golfers say.. “we are growing the sport”… go fuck yourself… your clogging my lineup/tee times you assbags.
I only care about my surfival pick getting through the third round so i can get my hands on 7 grand and three custom boards!
It’s a fucking great prize. No two ways about it.
I picked Jack. This brings back memories of my of my last trip to Vegas.
sorry to hear it. He looked bullet proof until he didn’t.
Turns out all of the safe picks weren’t that safe after all. Lol.
And note – there’s no ‘vi’ Surf-i-VAL
44% of the field was wiped out yesterday…I gambled on Griff and survived.
+100% of the 6ix sanclemites.
At the Billabong Pro Tahiti contest in 2011, the surfers were sent out in super heavy conditions. After his heat, Jeremy Flores stated, “This morning was one of the gnarliest heats I’ve ever had in my life,” said Jeremy. “I was sitting out there with Heiarii (Williams), who is one of the best heavy-wave surfers ever, and he got an incredible wipeout. It’s not perfect, it’s windy and it’s messy and it’s scary. I spent a lot of time underwater in that morning heat and I hit the reef and I was just happy to survive the lineup.”
Not sure who the contest director was at the time, but this is the type of entertaining contest surfing we want to see at Pipeline and Teahupo’o:
Jeremy Flores – https://youtube.com/clip/Ug…
Watching Jeremy get flogged in any shape or form was always entertaining.
Except that rarely happened because he’s an absolute beast.
its usually by the judges…
From memory the comp director was Luke Egan, the pros didn’t want to surf and he still sent them out. And we’re still talking about it 13 years later.
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That ”thin sheen of expertise in one. insignificant skill” has been the sole muse for making healthier choices in a life full of distractions. And even in its decline, it’s still ridiculously fun. Go Mamiya!
When you’re on the upswing, yes!
But I am talking strictly about the pros who’ve surely sacrificed a lot more than the average joe.
I’m adrift, JP … no personal existential musings?? Wtf?
*but nice piece, nonetheless. Accurately captured, imo, the feel of the day.
Oh there’ll be plenty to come. I’m a bit adrift myself right now. Part deliberate nihilism, part lost. It’ll all be outed in time.
we’ve all been there … guessing the nihilism/lost combo is at least in part the inspiration for a pretty large percentage of this crowd ending up down here below the line in the first place. Wishing you good vibes on your journey. And remember, true happiness isn’t yesterday or tomorrow, it’s right now.
What.
show a little support Bex … don’t you remember those days of wandering through the universe feeling lost and aimless?
Once i sniffed what I thought was speed but was DMT.
i spent a lot of time sitting on the rocks at Deadmans
brutal. glad you made it through.
Was very dicey the first 90 minutes
surprise hits are always the worst
The home school\failed pro\industry rep pipeline ain’t what it used to be.
So what you’re saying is we get to watch 2 days of crossroad like chick flicks at 2ft off the wall whilst JMD dominates the penthouse motel room where most of the girls have “sleepovers”?