Luke Shepardson (pictured) wrangling a Waimea bear.
Luke Shepardson (pictured) wrangling a Waimea bear.

Hawaii issues “First Alert” as possible 40 ft waves storm toward islands’ north facing shores!

Ready to rumble.

It is officially winter time in the northern hemisphere. The weather outside frightful and extremely so if one happens to be named Filipe Toledo and either on or thinking about traveling to Hawaii any time soon. Yes, forecasters are alerting the public a major swell event with waves predicted to reach between 25 ft to 40 ft.

75 ft Hawaiian.

23 Jason Stathams.

432 Male German Lower Legs.

Big big.

Hawaii News Now is warning Toledo, and others, that the business will get underway tomorrow (Tuesday) and last through the week, declaring also, “Models suggest the cold front will move into Hawaii during the second half of the week as it weakens. Rainfall amounts do not appear to be very significant, and will be brief as the front quickly moves through. Winds will strengthen out of the north behind the front around Thursday and eventually veer to the northeast by Friday.”

Might it all be enough for the fabled Eddie to run? The most famous surf contest in the world, now that the Pipe Masters has been turned to junk, is called on when wave heights at Waimea Bay tower to a consistent 40 ft throughout the day. It was last played on Jan. 22, 2023, the tenth time in its history, but who could ever forget when on-duty lifeguard Luke Shepardson won it at the end?

Not a dry eye in this house.

Jamie O’Brien, it must be noted, was invited on the first Eddie ballot thus saving presenting sponsor Rip Curl much embarrassment or need for capitulation.

Whew.

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Chris Rock aims ugly slur at Jonah Hill
Chris Rock aims ugly slur at Jonah Hill

Surf community left dazed after Chris Rock aims “ugly” slur at Malibu’s Jonah Hill

“If he looked like Jonah Hill, they’d have given him the chair already — he’d be dead."

The surf community was left dazed last night after Beverly Hills Cop II star Chris Rock aimed a wild slur at Malibu’s Jonah “Surf Jew” Hill, describing him as ugly, during a monologue on Saturday Night Live.

Chris Rock made the cruel reference to Jonah Hill in relation to the arrest of the handsome Luigi Mangione, the alleged shooter of UnitedHealthcare CEO Brian Thompson.

Chris Rock noted the public’s fascination with Mangione’s appearance, saying:

“I really feel sorry for the family. Everybody’s fixated on how good-looking this guy looks. If he looked like Jonah Hill, no one would care. They’d already given him the chair already — he’d be dead.”

 

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BeachGrit

Hill, who is forty and a surf veteran of five years, was last seen in this pages when his former fiancé Sarah Brady savaged the Hollywood star in a wild and prolonged public dump of private text messages.

Brady lit a very public fire, dumping a series of what she said were private texts between the pair on Instagram. Brady claimed to be a “survivor” following the  end of a relationship with a man she described as misogynistic and a narcissist. 

Brady then delivered a stunning coupe de grace after Hill was banned from the Hawaiian surf spot made famous by Andy Irons.

Then, and after boiling Hill’s eggs, Sarah Brady went after a previous lover, the pro-Russia MAGA zealot Jackson Hinkle.

You’ll remember BeachGrit’s own rapprochement with Hill two years ago. 

As Chas Smith recalled,

We proceeded to chat for the next 30-plus minutes. He described how he had fallen in love with surfing, truly fallen in love. How he now understood the missteps he had made along the way, putting too much on social media etc. How he respected the history, the core, this BeachGrit community right here who also loves this odd water dance. How he reads, listens, learns. As proof of his devotion, he even deleted his Instagram account because he knew.

He didn’t ask for any changes in how we wrote about him. Understood that it came with the territory. Just wanted me to know that he simply loved surfing and was trying to honor that.

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Josh Brolin (left) up to no good.
Josh Brolin (left) up to no good.

Leading man Josh Brolin recalls falling into life of dereliction with notorious “Cito Rats” surf gang

"13 years old, your brain is still developing, it’s probably not the best time to start that drug..."

There are few actors more universally adored than Josh Brolin. Son of James Brolin, step-son of Barbara Streisand, ex-boyfriend of surf angel Mini Driver, the 56-year-old leading man has aged like the finest of non-alcoholic wines (Brolin is sober). Every movie he has ever appeared in, from Thrashin’ to W. is a cultural masterpiece and my brother’s girl friend in high school used to babysit his children when he lived in the greater San Luis Obispo region.

It is no wonder, then, with a life so full, that Brolin has just published a memoir From Under the Truck (buy here) and, thus, appeared on Jimmy Kimmel’s late night program in order to promote it.

After the usual banter, Brolin recounted a darker time in his life, particularly falling in with the notorious “Cito Rats” surf gang at 13-years-old and partaking lysergsäure-diethylamid, or LSD.

“I had a great trip! I mean, I had the most kind of amazing — 13 years old, your brain is still developing, it’s probably not the best time to start that drug, but I really had an amazing time,” Brolin told the host. “I saw a fireplace talking to me who said some nice things. I liked what he said. I didn’t dislike what he said. Yeah, it was like, caressing. It was wisdom.”

But things took a dark and sinister turn.

“We went through the whole thing and I was like, ‘Wow, there’s this revelation and all that,’ and then somebody that night, because it was the Cito Rats, said, ‘We should do it again,’” he continued. “Because like a drunk when you do alcohol, you go, ‘Let’s go to the bar and let’s do it again the next night, and the next night, and the next.’ So I was in the habit of doing things again.”

Kimmel, still suffering much despair from Donald Trump’s shock victory, wanted to know if Brolin could travel back in time, would he tell his 13-year-old surf gangster self not to participate in drug taking.

Looking straight at the camera, the lantern jaw’d brunette declared, “Dude, you can’t put me in that position because it’s like every 13-year-old watching your show, ‘cause it’s your biggest demographic,” he teased, before pointing and speaking directly into the camera. “Do not do LSD! Do not do LSD, children!”

Then turning to the dewy-eye’d Kimmel and admitting, “It was the greatest thing I ever did.”

Which prompts the question. What was the greatest thing you ever did?

Watch here while thinking.

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Kelly Slater has a biological age of only 39.
Kelly Slater has a biological age of only 39.

Geneticist reveals Kelly Slater to have freakishly slow ageing rate and a biological age of 39!

"Kelly Slater is proof that how you live can actually slow down the clock.”

The world’s greatest surfer Kelly Slater is a curio in so many ways: a never-to-be-beaten competitive record, unmatched dexterity on social media, a mysterious bebe still unseen by the world, but what might be his greatest feat  is his ability to slow the ageing process. 

The Australian vitamin company Melrose Future Lab makes supplements that repair your DNA, make your body very strong, give you nice sleepies and so on, and via geneticist Doc Denise Furness, they claim Kelly is ageing at the rate of 0.72 of a year every year.

“Kelly Slater is in his early 50s, but his biological age tells a different story.  Thanks to his lifestyle choices, Kelly is proof that how you live can actually slow down the clock.

Biological age testing looks at the true condition of your body compared to the average. Things like a nutrient-rich diet, regular exercise, quality sleep, and managing stress all play a huge role. Kelly’s commitment to these areas shows just how much control we can have over the ageing process.”

The comments are instructive:

“Never seen him stressed. Obviously he would get stressed being a high performance athlete but it doesn’t show too often. I reckon it’s because he invests in, and knows the importance of remaining calm in life and high pressure situations in order to get the best out of himself. His brother Stephen seemed like a fairly relaxed character also. Every now and then we hear how much damage the stress hormone can do but not many talk about it in mainstream areas because they can’t make money off it I reckon.”

“He’s even good at ageing,” writes Balter beer co-founder Stirling Howard. 

Slater says laying off the piss and bags has been the diff.

“Show me one person whose life’s better off or their success is better and they drank or did drugs,” he says.

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"Zuma Jay" Wagner (pictured) angry.

Dastardly thieves use raging Malibu fire as cover to rob iconic Zuma Jay’s Surf Shop

The lowest of the low.

There’s low, like jaywalking slowly or texting girlfriends that you would like to cannibalize them, and then there is low low, like staying to the very end of a Sean Combs party or robbing an iconic Malibu surf shop whilst wildfires rage all around.

But Malibu’s iconic Zuma Jay’s is where we set our stage this morning. You were certainly aware of the Santa Ana wind-whipped blaze that threatened to reduce the “city of tomorrow” to ashes. The Franklin Fire, as it was called, was a hungry out of control beast and local authorities shut off power so not to add any more accidental sparks.

Well, enterprising thieves aware that the outages would mean alarms would not ring nor cameras record took advantage of the situation and robbed the aforementioned Zuma Jay’s of nearly $1400 USD.

Shop owner Jefferson Wagner described the mangled cash register to the local ABC affiliate, explaining, “They just totally trashed this thing. I can hardly even close it.” He also shared the door wherein the naughty sneakers made their entrance, opining, “This is where they actually jimmied it through with the crow bars.”

The worst loss, though? Wagner, sad, declared, “The hardest part for me to retrieve is going to be all the receipts from the cash paid outs that I’ve done for the entire year. That’s postage, other things, toilet paper, everything you need to run a business.”

No word if any boards went missing but keep an eye out for this if you happen to call Malibu home.

Deal some local justice.

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