3 waves = session.
Dale Webster, the man who surfed without break for 40 years plus one month and one day, is a story for the record books. He passed on, as you certainly know, a few hours back at the age of 77. His record will never be broken, no not ever.
He came up during David Lee Scales and my weekly chat and, I’ll be honest, I was slightly rude. Webster surfed his 40 years plus in Bodega Bay, riding generally un-pristine slop every single day to…. make a record?
To what end?
Just to do?
I very much understand the famed mountaineer George Mallory’s comment to the question “Why do you want to climb Mt. Everest?” with “Because it’s there.” But Webster surfing slop because it’s there struck me poorly. Couldn’t we all surf slop, daily, if we so wished?
Well, I am regularly chastened for ill-informed thoughts and was, rightly, once again.
Dale Webster didn’t just surf slop. He surfed three waves each session or else it didn’t count. As posited by a dear listener:
Dale Webster did give us something. He gave us the definition for a surf session. 3 waves caught = a surf session. Anything less. Just went for a paddle. And I still use the metric. Specifically those proper bad days where there’s hardly a thing. If I get three it counts as a session!
Thank you, Dale Webster. And Godspeed.
Listen to today’s nonsense, wherein I claim nobody but professionals, outside of Australia, should compete in surf contests.
Enjoy.
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RIP Dale.
A man who knew his priorities.
FWIW,
Steve Pezman told me once:
“Three surf checks equals a go out.”
https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
When is the “Paddleout”?
hmmm…best surf in the world?
I have the most horrific tales of this theory haha! Torturous at times!
Xox
Really ?
77’s pretty young these days, so it seems that too much surfing was detrimental to his longevity.
Looks like I’ll easily crack the hundy…
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Good day
Did that mofo work nights or have a trust fund? Im impressed, I pass on a sesh if a couple requirements aren’t met. Crumbly, mushy, windy, crowded etc. Burned so much gasoline chasing waves and not surfing; yes you’re welcome I didn’t paddle and sit on your peak… and for all the climate change out my exaust pipe😎
Happy Birthday Chas. Happy Birthday Kalia Gallina.
Live where I do, Chas, let alone for many years, and that “slop” of Dale’s looks real enticing. I’d love 3 waves of that a day. Let alone the cosmic karma that guy built up. More soul in his 5mm booty than the entire WSL combined.
Sole arch