Those brave men and women who shoot images of our surfing from watery angles have always impressed me most. But who, amongst us, hasn’t been influenced by their work from the earliest ages? The intimacy, the closeness that only brave man, or woman, bobbing in the brine, sometimes extremely heavy, with heavy camera and fins can bring.
It takes guts. Guts and an eye for art and a knowledge of surf and strong legs and strong arms and a stout heart.
Daniel Russo, Jimmy “Cane” Wilson, Brent and Brian Bielmann, Peter Taras, Damea Dorsey, Ben Thouard, but to name a very few, have made their mark in the space with Thouard just winning the coveted Ocean Photographer of the Year award.
The Frenchman’s intoxicating picture of surfer getting pounded at Teahupo’o beat out a colorful squid, sea otter in school of fish, even more colorful squid, sea snake all tied up in knots, sea turtle being chill and silly crab.
With rumours of acquisition by the Authentic Brands group at fever pitch, the iconic surf company Billabong was ordered, or so the whisper goes, to offload its famed “A-team” house overlooking Pipeline on Oahu’s North Shore.
The six-bed, four-bath contemporary looking joint sits on 9000 square feet of prime beachfront land and was quickly snapped up by a company insider who’d long enjoyed its fruits.
And, although the sale price remains secret a figure close to six million dollars has been touted.
I’ve only ever stayed at the place once and was forced, due to my beta male status, to sleep in a subterranean bunk room although one star did make me and my biz pal welcome with a succession of gifts, as well as the surprise three am treat of marijuana smoked through a hollowed-out apple.
Such was the star’s stamina and appetite for “partying” as they say, my pal and I were forced to flee to Honolulu for the less physically demanding pursuit of cocktails and prozzies.
The house, which can sleep eighteen people an feed a multitude with its three kitchens, entered surf folklore when it featured in Chas Smith’s coming-of-age book Welcome to Paradise: Now Go To Hell, described by the New York Times as “a compulsively readable narrative, indisputably great”, with a passage given to the day Fast Eddie Rothman paid a surprise visit to Billabong frontman Graham Stapelberg.
"If you ingest that much matter into your lungs, you will get very sick."
The Hollywood funnyman, whom you know in these pages as the surfer inspiration to anyone whoever thought about turning to surf in their middle age but were afraid they’d missed the boat or thought they were too chubby, weak or afraid, has revealed a shock health crisis following his role as Donnie Azoff in 2013’s The Wolf of Wall Street.
Yeah, this clip is a little old, BeachGrit was only a couple of years into this world when this thing surfaced, and brave Mr Hill had yet to bleach hair, buy two Malibu mansions, an 88 foam board and become engaged to a surf instructor, but still worth, very much, repeating, I think.
Hill’s character in the black comedy, which was produced and directed by the great Martin Scorsese (Shutter Island, Boxcar Bertha, Bringing Out the Dead), is a real creepy son of a bitch.
Marries his first cuz he don’t want any other man to have her, tells DiCaprio’s Jordan Belfort if had retarded kids ‘cause of the genetic risk he’d loose ‘em in the woods or institutionalise ‘em, eats a goldfish, joins Belfort in gaming stocks, makes million, and enjoys quaaludes and coke.
In the clip, which you can watch below, Hill says he did so much fake coke during the seven-month filming he got bronchitis for three weeks and had to be hospitalised.
“We were literally doing fake coke for, like, seven months, every day. I never had more vitamin D in my entire life; I could have lifted a car over my fucking head.”
Even though the fake coke was vitamin powder, it didn’t matter says Hill ‘cause “if you ingest that much matter into your lungs, you will get very sick” and adding, “It’s interesting pretending to be on drugs… I’ll use music. I’ll make a playlist for every scene, so I’ll try to make, like, music that [makes me feel] jittery and chaotic… and then just drink a ton of coffee and Red Bull.”
The patron saint of VALS lives a vastly different lifestyle to that of Azoff, of course.
Just two weeks ago, BeachGrit reported that Hill had become a Mercedes van-driving surf nomad scouring the Californian coastline for waves in a Mercedes adventure vehicle, also known as the Beast Mode 4×4.
Exclusive: Surf fans dry eyes, become wildly euphoric after stunning revelation that Kelly Slater and Gisele Bündchen follow each other on Instagram though Tom Brady follows neither!
Surf fans, moments ago, were seen mournfully weeping, or it may have actually been woefully sobbing, after the shocking announcement that Gisele Bündchen had initiated divorce proceedings from Tom Brady as a result of his telegraphing retirement from professional football before reneging and suiting up again.
Their potential reunion the stuff of whispered myth.
But, alas, Slater’s refusal to hang up the singlet a major possible roadblock.
An enterprising surf journalist has uncovered the greatest hint of all. As any modern man, woman, none-of-the-prior knows, Instagram is the place to telegraph the heart’s true desire and look and see.
While Tom Brady is followed by both Slater and Bündchen…
He follows neither. But, they follow each other!
The candles surf fans have been lighting appear to be working!
Love, truly, is the way.
Though it may feel like we’ve finally crossed the finish line, more candles can’t hurt.
Buy in bulk, please.
Surf fans woefully sob as source reveals Gisele Bündchen’s breakup with Tom Brady due his fear of retirement leaving steamy reunion with world’s oldest professional surfer Kelly Slater in sudden doubt!
What a difference a day makes. Less than twenty-four hours ago, surf fans had never been so high, riding to the very crest of a wave that has been building all week. Namely, the revelation that Gisele Bündchen and her husband Tom Brady had each hired divorce lawyers and were not “hanging out,” as it were.
The two had been married for over a decade but suddenly, and seemingly without warning, separation hung heavy in the air. While this fact was, and is, sad, surf fans couldn’t help but feel a rush of emotion, of hope that maybe Bündchen was on her way back to the world’s greatest surfer, Cocoa Beach’s Kelly Slater.
The Brazilian supermodel and eleven-time world champion had dated during 2005, 2006 and formed the very picture of beauty, brains, international sexy.
Speaking recently to Us Weekly, an insider said friends of Brady, 45, and Bündchen, 42, “are upset” at the Buccaneers quarterback “for going back on his word and coming out of retirement,” referencing his NFL change of heart.
“They hate the way Tom is refusing to bend for Gisele,” the source continued.
Allegations of discord between Brady and Bündchen first surfaced in September, when Page Six exclusively reported that the pair had engaged in heated arguments over his NFL return. A source later stated, however, that their issues have “nothing to do with his decision to return to the NFL,” noting the claims are “sexist.”
“The problems are not due to his decision to play football again — sometimes things are complicated,” the source said.