What other foundational myths are we wrong about?
The philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche once opined, “The surest way to corrupt a youth is to instruct him to hold in higher esteem those who think alike than those who think differently” and it must be assumed the great German’s various treatises and letters were read, daily, in the Dinofa house when Cruz was but a babe.
Though you are certainly aware of the New Jersey surf phenom, his flair and style, his passion and pop, but you might not know that he is also an iconoclast, recently shattering one of surfing’s longest-held assumptions.
Yes, ever since the very first days, when Hawaiian princesses and princes were sliding wooden slabs on gentle waves, folk would say, “You can’t surf when houses are falling.”
That wisdom was passed from father to son, mother to daughter, through Malibu in the 50s, Torquay in the 60s, Jeffreys Bay in the 70s, Hossegor in the 80s, Rio de Janeiro in the 90s and then, thanks to the internet, every place people are able to surf.
Generations of surfers around the world believing “you can’t surf when houses are falling” to be as true as “Hawaiian Airlines hates longboarders.“
Well, you can imagine the shock currently reverberating through the surf community after young Cruz Dinofa went surfing off the coast of North Carolina while houses were falling.
But you have, no doubt, read the stories, seen the videos of those charming stilt homes built upon the sand collapsing into the sea as it rises. The 12th since 2020 tumbled days ago, leaving a wide debris field and surfers frustrated on the beach, unable to participate in otherwise perfect conditions.
Well as Arthur Schopenhauer wrote, “The discovery of truth is prevented more effectively, not by the false appearance things present and which mislead into error, not directly by weakness of the reasoning powers, but by preconceived opinion, by prejudice.
Dinofa paddled out on those Outer Banks, got barreled, shattered prejudice and changed surf history.
Boom.
What other foundational myths have we held that might be wrong?
Ben Gravy lives on a ranch for some reason?
That surfing is, or ever was, a worthwhile pursuit?
could be one of the best albums of all time— imma “something against you” typa guy though …
Surf myth! Paying $29 to Kia won’t improve your life.
Reality: $29 is fuck all money and can potentially get some loser motivated to go forward in life.
Surfing can be so confusing
Sam George?
He was there!
Stupid name
like having a mini ramp in the back yard!
#weareallerikakirk
lol
How can we dance while the earth is turnin?
How do we surf while the house is falling?
Houses built on sand will fall. Says so in the good book. Surfing while it’s happening in front of you that’s a personal decision.
What other foundational myths?
Like Independence Day and the Constitution?
Or more like the WSL historical timeline?
More questions than answers at this time
Edit: why stop now?
other foundational myths….
The New Testament
The Old Testament
The Big Bang Theory
The Metric System
Evolution
Christopher Columbus
Christmas
Halloween
Easter Bunnies
BG’s origin story
Joel’s traditional longboard revival
Simon Anderson’s invention of the thruster
The discovery of Cloud Nine….
Am I missing anything?
Cinco De Mayo is not Mexican Independence Day nor should it be celebrated with taco salads or nachos.
#tacotuesday
otherwise known, traditionally at least, on the Gold Coast as ‘Ladies night’.
Release the files!
nah New and Old testament , definitely not a myth…..Metric system makes more sense than imperial….is evolution the revolution…or revolution the evolution…..perhaps we could talk about capitalism and it’s politics…that democracy is the biggest foundational myths…..?????
Democracy seems to be very commodified nowadays.
Xox
My favorite book of the Bible is the one on the unified description of gravity as a geometric property of space and time, fusing the three dimensions of space with the one dimension of time into a single four dimensional continuum. That and the one on dinosaurs.
haha…..or having faith that our world has a higher entity/creator….who love us and has given us a set of morals and rules to live by
Am I reading that wrong or did you just claim evolution is a myth?